Last August, I walked all 321 kilometres of the Camino Primitivo route from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. I spent an enormous amount of time researching the trip, firstly to ensure that I only packed what I needed and that my pack was as lightweight as possible, and secondly, in order to plan my stages in such a way that the daily distances were manageable and that the places I chose to stay were worthy of an overnight stop.
To help with your own itinerary planning, I wanted to share what I consider to be the best places to stay on the Camino Primitivo route.
These are destinations that I believe are worthy of a morning or afternoon of your time rather than just a passing wander through.
So, without further ado, let’s dive straight in!
Camino Primitivo Route | Best Places to Stay
1 | Oviedo
The Camino Primitivo route begins at the cathedral in the beautiful city of Oviedo. Depending on which airport you fly into and the subsequent departure time of your connecting bus or train journey, it may be that you have to factor in an overnight stay in Oviedo before starting your walk. But, regardless of whether this is the case, my advice would be to give yourself a full morning or afternoon with which to explore the city.
Founded by King Fruela I of Asturias in the eighth century, Oviedo is located in northwest Spain between the Cantabrian mountains and the Bay of Biscay and is the capital city of the Asturias region. Oviedo is famous for its medieval old town, brimming with Gothic and Baroque-style architecture, its UNESCO-listed monuments (there are five dotted around the city), its food (the city was named Spanish Capital of Gastronomy for 2024) and its sidrerías (cider bars).
With just half a day in Oviedo before I started walking the Camino Primitivo route the next morning, these are a few of the attractions I managed to tick off my list.
1 | Catedral de San Salvador
Built between the 13th and 16th centuries, the Catedral de San Salvador combines a number of different architectural styles — primarily Gothic but with Baroque and Renaissance elements.
With it’s impressive facade, intricate interior details and fascinating history, Oviedo’s cathedral should be first on the list of your itinerary of things to see and do in the city. It’s also one of the locations from which you can collect your compostela or ‘pilgrim passport,’ and is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo route.
Catedral de San Salvador, Oviedo – the start point of the Camino Primitivo route
2 | Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco
Located on Monte Naranco, the Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco is a stunning example of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture. It was originally built in 842 as part of a palace complex, and later converted into a church in the 12th century.
Although it’s a three-kilometre walk uphill from Oviedo’s cathedral, visiting the Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco was something I was so glad I decided to do on my afternoon in the city.
The Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco is also one of the city’s five UNESCO-listed monuments.
3 | Campo de San Francisco
There are over 1,000,000 square metres of parks and open spaces in Oviedo, but the most visited is San Fransisco Park. Formerly the market garden of the Convent of San Francisco, and converted into a public park in the 19th century, the Campo de San Francisco covers an area of 90,000 square metres in central Oviedo.
Inside the park, you’ll find over 900 trees and 127 different species of plants, along with shaded pathways, a decorative bandstand, some fascinating sculptures, a duck pond, and a pre-Romanesque fountain dating back to the 9th century (one of Oviedo’s UNESCO-listed monuments).
Portada de la Antigua Iglesia de San Isidoro (Arch of the Old Church of San Isidoro), San Francisco Park, Oviedo
Sculpture at one of the entrances to San Francisco Park, Oviedo
One of the most famous sculptures in the park is ‘Mafalda,’ who has become somewhat of an icon of the city since her inauguration in 2003. She was installed as a tribute to the character and her creator, Joaquin Salvador Lavado Tejón — also known as ‘Quino.’
Sculptures in San Francisco Park, Oviedo. That’s Mafalda in the middle.
4 | The city’s sculptures
Although there are several located in San Francisco Park, there are reportedly over one hundred sculptures scattered around Oviedo. The city council started the tradition of installing sculptures in the late 1990s as a way of celebrating Oviedo’s history, culture, and notable people.
Where I stayed in Oviedo | Green Hostel. Centrally located just minutes from the cathedral, dorms and private rooms available.
2 | Salas
52 kilometres from Oviedo along the Camino Primitivo route lies the medieval village of Salas. Located in the Nonaya river valley beneath the watchful eye of the sacred mountain of El Visu, Salas houses an impressive collection of historic buildings in a beautiful location.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t very kind to me during my afternoon here, but just imagine how stunning this place would be backed by blue skies!
Scenes from the medieval village of Salas, Camino Primitivo route
Three monuments you should check out before leaving town are the Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor; the 14th century Torre de la Villa; and the Palace of Valdés Salas — now a hotel, Tourist Office, and Pre-Romanesque Museum of San Martín de Salas.
Where I stayed in Salas | Casa Sueño. One of the nicest albergues I stayed at along the Camino Primitivo route. Dorms and private rooms available, beautiful garden, and on-site bar and restaurant. It’s located at the western end of town, directly on the Camino Primitivo route.
3 | Tineo
Located on a small tributary of the Narcea river, Tineo dates back to Roman times, and there’s a very tangible sense of history here as you wander through the town’s maze of narrow streets and alleyways.
The architecture in Tineo is characterised by its colourful buildings with overhanging wooden balconies, and the abundance of traditional ‘hórreos’ — constructions that look like ancient wooden houses on stilts which are used for storing and preserving food.
The true star of the show, though, is Tineo’s Plaza de Ayuntamiento — a spacious square that is flanked by a number of impressive buildings; most notably, the grand-looking, green-painted Town Hall and the Palacio de Meras, which now houses a fancy hotel at ground level and a private albergue down in the basement.
It was beautifully sunny and warm on the day that I arrived into Tineo.
Where I stayed in Tineo | Albergue de Peregrinos Palacio de Meras. Right on the edge of the Tineo’s main square, in a beautiful historic building dating from 1525. Offers 54 beds spread over four bedrooms. Private rooms are available in the hotel, but are A LOT more expensive!
4 | Grandas de Salime
Although you may be tempted to stop at Hotel Las Grandas when you discover the incredible views of Salime Reservoir from the spacious terrace out the back, I recommended that you continue along the Camino Primitivo route to the town of Grandas de Salime.
Although there’s not a massive amount to do in town, Grandas de Salime benefits from a lovely location in a sloping valley that opens towards the river Navia.
Scenes from Grandas de Salime, and a pilgrim sculpture made out of scrap metal
Make sure you arrive in time to have a look around the Ethnographic Museum (the opening times are listed here), which was founded in 1984 and offers a fascinating insight into the ethnographic heritage of the communities of western Asturias.
There’s a mock-up of an old barber shop, live demonstrations of local crafts and trades and a working mill. It’s well worth the €1.50 entrance fee.
Ethnographic Museum, Grandas de Salime
Where I stayed in Grandas de Salime | Albergue Porta de Grandas. So-named because you’ll find this albergue at the approach into town, overlooking lush green fields grazed by cattle. There are 26 beds, spread across three rooms and then an additional two private rooms.
5 | Castroverde
The majority of pilgrims I walked with on day eight of the Camino Primitivo route were stopping the night at O’Cadavo, but I had a room booked seven kilometres further along the trail, in Castroverde.
And, in hindsight, I’m so vary glad I did.
Of all the smaller places to stay on the Camino Primitivo route, Castroverde was my absolute favourite.
Checking into Pension Roma was the most amazing introduction to this little village, because I had a room on the top floor with its own private balcony, and from the balcony, I could gaze out across town to Castroverde’s 14th century castle.
My room at Pension Roma and the stunning view from my balcony.
As soon as I’d showered, I made the 350-metre walk across town to take a look at the castle. Whilst its old wall and keep are all that now remain of the original structure, and exploring those means picking your route carefully through a sea of nettles, I loved this cool little find in Castroverde — something I never would have discovered if I’d simply been following the Camino Primitivo route through town.
The remains of Castroverde’s 14th century castle.
On my way back from the castle, I meandered my way through Castroverde’s streets, snapping countless photographs along the way, before arriving into Praza do Axuntamento — the town square.
Scenes from Castroverde – one of my favourite stops along the Camino Primitivo route.
On one edge of the square lies the Town Hall and on the other, a parish church dedicated to Santiago. And at the centre of the square is a sculpture known as the ‘Font dos Nenos,’ which represents a group of children taking refuge under a bronze umbrella, the rain created by the water that flows from the fountain.
Praza do Axuntamento, Castroverde
Where I stayed in Castroverde | Pension Roma. You may have already gathered that this was THE best place I stayed at along the Camino Primitivo route. Fantastic value for money, beautiful, spacious room with private balcony and the most incredible view of town, and a bar and restaurant downstairs.
6 | Lugo
Although I appreciate that you will probably already have factored in an overnight stay in Lugo (most pilgrims do — it’s a beautiful city, with lots of facilities available), this is a reminder to ensure that you arrive into the city early enough to allow yourself a full afternoon to have a look around.
Castroverde is seven kilometres closer to Lugo than O’Cadavo, and it’s a relatively flat 23 kilometres from there, with not much in the way of services along the way. So, providing you stay in Castroverde overnight and make a pretty early start in the morning, you should find yourself arriving into Lugo around lunchtime.
Lugo is located on a hill on the banks of the river Miño, and is the only city in the former Roman Empire to still possess a complete circuit of Roman city walls. It’s possible to walk the entire 2.1-kilometre length of Lugo’s city walls, and that is one of the first things I’d suggest you do upon arriving into the city.
Lugo’s impressive city walls. One of the best things to do in Lugo is to make the 2.1-kilometre circular walk along them.
Other sights I’d recommend are as follows.
1 | Catedral de Santa Maria
Constructed in the 12th century, Lugo’s cathedral features Romanesque architecture, later enhanced with Baroque, Gothic, and Neoclassical elements.
One side of Lugo’s cathedral shot on the afternoon I arrived and the other side shot on the morning I left, Camino Primitivo route.
Unfortunately, no photography is permitted inside Lugo’s cathedral but, take my word for it — the interior is stunning! I’d definitely urge you to have a peek inside.
Pilgrim’s get a discounted admission fee into the cathedral (you’ll need to show your compostela), and you can get a pilgrim stamp here too.
2 | Museo Provincial
Lugo’s Provincial Museum is housed in the former Convent of San Francisco. Each section of the museum is dedicated to a different aspect of Galicia’s art and history over the centuries.
The museum is closed on a Monday, however, all is not lost if you cannot plan your arrival for another day — you can still browse the sculptures in the garden out the back.
Sculptures in the garden of the Museo Provincial, Lugo
3 | O Vello Cárcere
O Vello Cárcere is Lugo’s former prison, and has now been transformed into a cultural and exhibition centre.
I stumbled upon this place by accident, but absolutely loved it here!
There are both permanent and temporary exhibitions on display, so those you see pictured below (when I visited in September 2024) may not necessarily still be available for viewing. You can check out a current list of exhibitions here.
Entry is free of charge, and it’s located just outside the old city walls.
Some of the exhibition pieces on display when I visited O Vello Cárcere in Lugo
Where I stayed in Lugo | Hostal ALBA. Fantastic location, just 400 metres from Lugo’s cathedral and only 100 metres from Porta de San Pedro (one of the main entrance gates to the old town through the old city walls), Hostal Alba offers a variety of private rooms, some with balconies overlooking the city.
7 | Santiago de Compostela
I honestly couldn’t have asked for a nicer city to be the end point of the Camino Primitivo route — I loved Santiago de Compostela more than I ever expected to!
Understandably, not everyone has time to hang around in Santiago at the end of their walk. However, if you are able, I’d recommend you give yourself a full day with which to explore the city, including an evening of taking your taste buds on a journey around its huge array of tapas and pinchos bars.
What surprised me the most about Santiago de Compostela was just how much there is to see and do in the city that is not pilgrim-related — Santiago would make a fantastic weekend break destination, even if you have no interest in either hiking or religion.
I was also blown away by the number of parks and green spaces in the city, and that you don’t have to walk very far at all to escape the crowds that throng Santiago’s Old Town streets.
With one day in the city, here’s what I would recommend you do.
1 | Catedral de Santiago de Compostela
It would be very remiss of me if I didn’t mention that star of the show in this city — Santiago’s grand cathedral and the official end point of the Camino Primitivo route.
Construction of the cathedral began in 1075 (during the reign of King Alfonso VI), but wasn’t completed until somewhere around 1211. So, the finished structure, whilst primarily built in Romanesque style, also has elements of Gothic and Baroque.
Although the only time you’ll likely be able to photograph Santiago’s cathedral without hoards of pilgrims milling around in front of it is early in the morning, I’d recommend waiting until the golden hour just before sunset, when its facade shines beautifully in the late afternoon sunshine.
The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela (the end point of the Camino Primitivo route) bathed in the golden light of the late afternoon sun.
If you have time (and the available budget; the current cost is €12 for pilgrims), I’d recommend booking a rooftop tour of the cathedral too (‘Cubiertas y Torre de la Carraca’ on the website).
Views of Santiago de Compostela from the rooftops of its cathedral.
2 | Museo do Pobo Galego
Housed in a convent founded in the 13th century, Santiago’s Museo do Pobo Galego is the city’s museum of Galician history and culture. It documents Galician music history, festivals, arts, crafts, architecture and daily life over the centuries, and is an absolutely fascinating place.
The Museo do Pobo Galego is open Monday-Saturday from 11:00-18:00 hours.
Museo do Pobo Galego, Santiago de Compostela
Museo do Pobo Galego, Santiago de Compostela
This was one of my favourite finds in the city, and I especially loved wandering through the Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval — access is around the back of the museum.
Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval, Santiago de Compostela.
2 | Parque da Alameda
On the opposite side of the Old Town to the Museo do Pobo Galego is Alameda Park. Whilst it’s a lot busier than the gardens mentioned above, it’s also a lot bigger, so it’s still possible to find those quieter corners.
Parque da Alameda, Santiago de Compostela
Where I stayed in Santiago de Compostela | Os Sobrinos Do Pai and Denike. I stayed at two different places in Santiago, because I’d originally booked two nights in the city via booking.com, but Ryanair cancelled my flight home, so I had to then book on to a flight the following day, and the place I’d booked had no availability for the third night. Both places have a review score of 9.1 out of 10 on booking.com (correct at time of writing) and both are located within 400 metres from Santiago’s cathedral. If you’re on a budget, though, Os Sobrinos Do Pai is a fraction cheaper.
I’m planning to write a more detailed post on Santiago de Compostela in future (and I’ll hopefully be returning to the city later this year to walk the Camino Finisterre), so keep your eyes peeled!
And, If you’d like to read my full guide to walking the Camino Primitivo route, click on the link below.
Walking the Camino Primitivo: A Helpful Guide For Planning Your Trip
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